Professional factory selling 6.5″ Backhand Long-nose Locking Pliers with Jackets Factory for Jamaica

Professional factory selling 6.5″ Backhand Long-nose Locking Pliers with Jackets Factory for Jamaica

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We have a highly efficient team to deal with inquiries from customers. Our goal is "100% customer satisfaction by our product quality, price & our team service" and enjoy a good reputation among clients. With many factories, we can provide a wide range of Professional factory selling 6.5″ Backhand Long-nose Locking Pliers with Jackets Factory for Jamaica, "Passion, Honesty, Sound service, Keen cooperation and Development" are our goals. We are here expecting friends all over the world!


Basic  Information


■Model Number: RL-DLQ014

Additional Information


■Material: A3# steel (Q235) or 45# steel

■Size: 6.5”

■Surface Treatment: Nickel-plated, Zinc-plated, Black Oxide, Electrophoresis

■Heat Treatment: Optional

■Package: Blister Card, Suction Card, Tie Card, Double Blister Card

■OEM: Acceptable

■HS Code: 8203200000

■Samples: For FREE

■Delivery Time: Always 30 working days depending on the order quantity

■Packing: By standard cartons

Product Description


■Mainly used for clamping parts to rivet, weld, grind and so on, which is characterized by the powerful clamp force produced by the jaw. It can lock tight so that the parts won’t fetch away. Besides, jaws have a lot of levels to adjust for the use of different thickness of parts, and it also can be used as a wrench.

■Flexible using, long life and good tenacity.

■The screw tuning button can give the best clamp size easily.

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  • How to do-it-yourself on renewing an antenna’s coaxial (shielded) cable connection.
    Transcript provided for the hearing impaired:
    Alright so today on Repairs101 I’ve got a frayed piece of coaxial cable on a two-way radio antenna that needs repairing.
    OK so here’s the deal: coax is used on electronics like two-way radios, radar and something called television.
    Now here’s a sample I put together, really the tip should be soldered as well as the shield should be soldered to the fitting.
    This is what a bad installation looks like. I guess he was in a hurry or something, I don’t know. So I cleaned it up and I dismantled it. I had a heck of a time getting this plug out. (There it goes!)
    Obviously the wire needed to be fresh-ended. So I marked the wire for the core and the shield — just the same as the old wire. Once the end is prepped you want to slip on a shrink tube.
    Next I took a terminal and I bent the ring back and then I spread apart the saddle a little bit. I put it all together and spread the shield away from the dielectric. Be sure your dielectric is cut so that it’s flush to avoid any signal leakage.
    I trimmed the ring off, then I gave the saddle a real good squeeze. Then a little solder here, a little solder there. A little solder there, too. So then shrink tube, two layers thick. And then last but not least was this little plug that I stuck on with some silicone.
    Finish up with a continuity test from the antenna to the core and again from the fitting to the base.
    Alright, thanks for watching and don’t forget to subscribe!



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    The full review has more details including curent pricing.

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