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This is how to quickly and easily remove a Shimano, SunRace or Aris MTB freewheel, disassemble the gear cluster (Cogset) and also gain access to the freewheel internals without any specialty lock ring removal tools. Only basic and very common hand tools/hardware used.

https://www.homeownerseries.com

Fill Valve Repair = https://youtu.be/IB0VHdhUR1s?hd=1
Fill Valve Part Overview = https://youtu.be/bNQFOwuUCKg?hd=1
To view the Fill Valve Replacement Playlist = https://www.youtube.com/view_play_list?p=4A143A19D85596B2

Replacing the Fill Valve

Diagnostic

The Toilet Fill Valve controls the amount of water in the tank of the toilet. This assembly should be replaced if it begins to not shut off correctly, becomes damaged, or corroded. To minimize any disruptions in service, it is suggested that the Fill Valve be replaced every five years as part of regular toilet maintenance.

Parts

A new fill valve assembly can be purchased at hardware or plumbing supply stores. The package should include the Fill valve assembly, refill tube, lock nut and any gaskets.

Tools

The tools needed to replace the Fill Valve are a pair of rib joint pliers, an adjustable open-end wrench, and a small plastic bin.

Replacement

Begin the replacement of the toilet fill valve by removing the tank’s lid, turning off the water supply valve, and flushing the toilet.

If the toilet already has an existing Fill Valve, and the base is in good condition, then the fill valve may be quickly replaced by reaching to the base of the fill valve and pulling up the lock ring, removing the refill tub, and sliding the Fill Valve off of its base. The new Fill Valve is installed by simply removing the base that came with it and sliding it onto the existing base in the toilet. Reach behind the Fill Valve and snap the lock ring down into place. Then attach the refill tube to the overflow tube and adjust the new fill valve for optimal water level.

If the Fill Valve base in the toilet is not in good condition, then the entire unit will need to be replaced as follows.

With the tank empty, position a plastic bin to collect water under the water supply hose and unscrew the hose from the base of the tank, having any water drain into the plastic bin below. Now with an adjustable open-end wrench, or rib joint pliers, unscrew the lock nut located on the shank of the fill valve. With the nut removed the entire assembly can be pulled out of the tank. The old assembly should be placed into the plastic bin as it may continue to drain water.

With the old assembly removed, take the new unit and adjust the height to best suit the height of the tank and overflow tube, usually around 1-inch below the tank’s edge. Insert the threaded end into the hole where the previous assembly was removed. Position the new assembly and thread the lock nut by hand securing the tube upright.

Once hand tight, secure the nut a quarter turn further with the rib joint pliers to insure a watertight seal. Now re-attach the water supply hose to the fill valve’s shank. Place the fill valve’s refill hose into the overflow tube. The refill hose must not extend below the tank’s water line or water will constantly siphon from the tank.

Most fill valve kits should include a metal clip or angle adaptor that, when installed, will prevent the refill tube from going below the water line. Once in place, turn on the water-supply valve and the tank will begin to fill. Make any adjustments to the water level by sliding the adjustment clip, located on the fill valve, to change the height of the float-cup. The tank’s water level is best at about 1-inch below the top of the overflow tube located in the center of the toilet. Inspect the new connections to make sure that they are not leaking water, and flush the toilet to test the toilet’s function. Once in order, replace the tank’s lid to complete the project.